- New
Dimocarpus longan
Longan fruit tree
€18.00
VAT included
Fast and safe delivery throughout Europe
Our commitments
- 100% French production
- Without fertilizers or chemicals
- Plant growth rate respected
Not grafted, not hybridized
Caractéristiques de la plante
- Dimocarpus longan : Longan fruit tree
- Family: Sapindaceae
- Origin : China
- Height in its natural environment : 20 m
- Hardiness : -4°C
- Colour of the flower : yellow
Height : about 10 to 20 cm (depending on seasons)
Learn more about Longan fruit tree
Do you like lychees? Then you'll love the fruit of this Longan fruit tree, a tropical Asian fruit tree that produces small round fruits called longans, or more poetically, “dragon's eyes”!!
When you break open the fairly tough skin of this longan, you discover a small, round, whitish fruit, similar to a lychee. You then taste it and enjoy its flavor, which is somewhere between lychee and rambutan, very sweet and juicy. Then there is its magnificent round, shiny, black pit with a small white spot, reminiscent of an eye, as if a dragon were looking at you ;-)! Unless the nickname dragon's eye fruit comes from the fact that the whole fruit inserted into dragon statues gives the appearance of an eye with its semi-opaque whitish texture... Longans can also be consumed as juice and used, among other things, to make fruit in syrup.
Dimocarpus longan is a beautiful tree with evergreen leaves and highly melliferous flowers, attracting bees in particular, which transform its pollen into a very tasty and highly sought-after honey. The fruits grow in long, highly branched clusters, which can easily contain around a hundred longans!
The Longan fruit tree is endangered in the wild, so hurry up and join in saving it and its incredible little tropical fruits!
Conseils de culture
Rempoter ?
Arroser ?
Apport d'éléments nutritifs ?
Plante d'intérieur ou plante d'extérieur ?
Que faire en cas de maladie ?
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Dimocarpus longan, growing tips
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Repotting -
Watering -
For an indoor planting -
For an outdoor planting -
Pruning -
Fertilizer -
In case of pest attack -
Rayon de Serre's word
When you receive your plant, repot it in a pot slightly larger than the bucket, which must be well pierced. Avoid pot covers which prevent residual water from draining away and encourage fungal diseases. Choose a fine potting soil, ideally with added perlite or sand to lighten the substrate (do not use garden soil or acidic soil such as heather). Then plan two repottings per year (spring and autumn), gradually increasing the size of the pot and adapting it to the size of the root network (the roots must have room, but not too much as the plant must be able to dry out its substrate between waterings). This avoids having to add fertilizer, which always risks burning the fragile roots of the plants and making the plant wither as soon as the fertilizer is stopped.
Moderate watering: watering should be copious (the whole root ball should be wet), but wait until the substrate has dried deeply before watering again (you can stick your finger in the soil: as long as you feel moisture, do not water). Your plant will recover better from a lack of water than from an excess of water. Always water at the base of the plant, and do not mist it, because stagnant water in the armpit of the leaves favors cryptogamic diseases. If your atmosphere is too dry, put bowls of water nearby (above radiators for example), so that evaporation humidifies the air.
Your plant must be taken out in summer, a full sun is perfectly convenient for it. It must be brought in a cold room in winter, that is to say a room free of frost but not heated. It fears excessive humidity when temperatures are low, so drastically reduce watering. Be careful: do not take it out and bring it back in all the time, it must be taken out in good weather, then brought back in when the cold weather arrives, because plants adapt their foliage to their environment, which should not constantly change. It often happens that plants lose their foliage when they are taken out and/or brought in, don't worry, your plant will adapt and will emit its new foliage accordingly.
If your climate allows it, you will be able to plant your plant in full ground, a full sun is recommended. We advise you however to cultivate it in pot the first year and to make it spend the first winter in the heat, in order to strengthen it well. Plant it between the end of the risk of frost (generally at the beginning of May) and the end of August, in a soil which must be light and draining; do not hesitate to add sand and fine potting soil if necessary. Be careful with the minimum temperatures indicated: they are given for a mature plant, and you have to take into account the wind which accentuates the cold felt, as well as the water retention capacity of your soil, which can rot the roots if it is not sufficiently draining. So take a little safety margin!
This plant supports the pruning, but we do not advise it because that would make it lose its native form.
Our plants are grown naturally, without chemical fertilizers, so we advise you to repot them regularly (twice a year) rather than adding fertilizer.
If your plants are under attack by aphids or other pests, the best way to control them is by hand. Change their soil, remove as many undesirables as possible by hand and then shower your plants with a strong stream of water to eliminate any eggs that may be present. Spray them (insist on the underside of the leaves) with liquid black soap diluted in water. Repeat the operation several times at a few days interval. Take them outside in good weather, rain, sun and wind will kill most of the aggressors!
It bears fruit in its fourth or fifth year. Be careful not to overwater during the cold season!
- Repotting
- Watering
- For an indoor planting
- For an outdoor planting
- Pruning
- Fertilizer
- In case of pest attack
- Rayon de Serre's word
When you receive your plant, repot it in a pot slightly larger than the bucket, which must be well pierced. Avoid pot covers which prevent residual water from draining away and encourage fungal diseases. Choose a fine potting soil, ideally with added perlite or sand to lighten the substrate (do not use garden soil or acidic soil such as heather). Then plan two repottings per year (spring and autumn), gradually increasing the size of the pot and adapting it to the size of the root network (the roots must have room, but not too much as the plant must be able to dry out its substrate between waterings). This avoids having to add fertilizer, which always risks burning the fragile roots of the plants and making the plant wither as soon as the fertilizer is stopped.
Moderate watering: watering should be copious (the whole root ball should be wet), but wait until the substrate has dried deeply before watering again (you can stick your finger in the soil: as long as you feel moisture, do not water). Your plant will recover better from a lack of water than from an excess of water. Always water at the base of the plant, and do not mist it, because stagnant water in the armpit of the leaves favors cryptogamic diseases. If your atmosphere is too dry, put bowls of water nearby (above radiators for example), so that evaporation humidifies the air.
Your plant must be taken out in summer, a full sun is perfectly convenient for it. It must be brought in a cold room in winter, that is to say a room free of frost but not heated. It fears excessive humidity when temperatures are low, so drastically reduce watering. Be careful: do not take it out and bring it back in all the time, it must be taken out in good weather, then brought back in when the cold weather arrives, because plants adapt their foliage to their environment, which should not constantly change. It often happens that plants lose their foliage when they are taken out and/or brought in, don't worry, your plant will adapt and will emit its new foliage accordingly.
If your climate allows it, you will be able to plant your plant in full ground, a full sun is recommended. We advise you however to cultivate it in pot the first year and to make it spend the first winter in the heat, in order to strengthen it well. Plant it between the end of the risk of frost (generally at the beginning of May) and the end of August, in a soil which must be light and draining; do not hesitate to add sand and fine potting soil if necessary. Be careful with the minimum temperatures indicated: they are given for a mature plant, and you have to take into account the wind which accentuates the cold felt, as well as the water retention capacity of your soil, which can rot the roots if it is not sufficiently draining. So take a little safety margin!
This plant supports the pruning, but we do not advise it because that would make it lose its native form.
Our plants are grown naturally, without chemical fertilizers, so we advise you to repot them regularly (twice a year) rather than adding fertilizer.
If your plants are under attack by aphids or other pests, the best way to control them is by hand. Change their soil, remove as many undesirables as possible by hand and then shower your plants with a strong stream of water to eliminate any eggs that may be present. Spray them (insist on the underside of the leaves) with liquid black soap diluted in water. Repeat the operation several times at a few days interval. Take them outside in good weather, rain, sun and wind will kill most of the aggressors!
It bears fruit in its fourth or fifth year. Be careful not to overwater during the cold season!
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Dimocarpus longan